Atomix · New York

Bryan Kim · The Infatuation. Bryan Kim revisits Atomix as New York has gained more Korean fine-dining competition. The 14-seat counter serves a ten-course menu in a Nomad townhouse; his account singles out inventive crab, fish and zucchini courses and the story card presented with each dish. He finds the cooking and storytelling exceptional, though the high price, sometimes hurried pacing and impersonal service complicate the value proposition.